Campsites Of Moremi, Savuti and Chobe
Moremi campsites are given to you with your booking, so choice is limited. We stayed at Xakanaka, operated by Kwelate. We were in campsite 9 of 10. The campsites were spread out across the marsh front. The furtherest from the ablutions was campsite 10. Campsite 9 was our home for 6 days. The campsite on initial impression was not the best, with little shade and the fire pit in the middle of the road. Luckily we carry what we need to be comfortable with us. We found a piece of metal and built the fire on the edge of the marsh. We threw up our tarpaulin for shade and rain, and we had home. We were far from the ablutions (500m) but we had a broken stand pipe which had been blocked with a piece of wood. It leaked slowly and could be used to collect water in a bucket. The next water source was another stand pipe about 70m away embedded in stone for elephant proofing.

At first glance the better pitches (1-7) were around the 2 ablution blocks, under shade trees, and this is where most other people camped. They had better access to the ablutions and water but these sites were more crowded and more well used. We had our privacy and the view was spectacular. Also the animals tended to wander through our camp freely and our visitors over 5 nights included buffalo, hyena, hippo, elephant, reedbuck, impala and lechwe. On the downside we had to drive to the ablutions at night so as not to walk into any of the visitors. So camps 8,9 and10 are more challenging but worth making the effort for.

Campsites 1 - 2 are probably the best as little thought went into placing fire pits or the view . People have to park on or close to the road and open their tents.
Xakanaxa
Savuti is a small camp and can be difficult to get into because of this. Maybe 8 camps in total. They may prevent your entry without a booking. We let 2 couples without bookings come and share with us during our stay. They will let you in to ask people if you can share their site. How often you get lucky there is anyone’s guess. We always find fellow travelers interesting and enjoyed the company.

The stands are quite huge so they can accommodate multiple vehicles and people and they ring around the ablution block. They are divided between stands which border the Savuti channel and stands around the back of the ablutions with no view so, if possible, it is best to be in 1-4 or Paradise camp. Of course you get the campsite you are given but we were lucky to be in number 4. We have been there before. It has one big tree for shade but there are also acres of bare earth and quite deep sand. Most of the sites have at least one tree but shade can be sparse. We were able to set up our tarpaulin again which sorted us. It is worth carrying some sort of shelter with you. There is a fireplace and bin and tap on each stand.

Savuti is run by SKL and, although they gave me endless trouble with the booking, they manage their camp sites well. Better than Kwelate. The ablutions seemed to have been renovated and were clean and functional. The camps were serviced every day with a team moving in when the site was vacated to clean the fireplaces and rake the stand. They also had a small tuck shop which sold some almost cold drinks and a few staples and snacks. Since we were here last they have built a tented camp and there are also a couple of lodges not far away so there is a range of accommodation and a fair number of safari vehicles out and about.

Of all the Delta game reserves Savuti is generally the driest. The Savuti channel rarely runs and most of the roads are sandy, sometimes deep sand, and rutted. There is a vast Marsh area in the south which is more challenging to drive and is impassable in the wet season and we were advised not to go there. The small part we did drive was pitted with muddy holes but rich in game. The main road from Moremi was easily navigable but can be a problem in wet season because of river crossings. We enjoyed good game viewing in quite a small area of pans north of the camp site.

Chobe riverfront has only one campground and that is Ihaha. Ihaha has 10 sites all along the Chobe riverfront. Each stand has a large tree and partial shade and the sites are well spaced so quite private and good views. We were in 4 and we again set up our own shade and rain shelter which helped a lot. There are 2 ablution blocks which serve the 10 sites. The closest to the ablutions are 3 and 4 at one end and 7 and 8 at the other end. The outliers, 1,2,9 and 10 may get more game wandering through but there is so much game activity in Ihaha that everyone gets some visitors. Because of this it may be worthwhile driving to the toilets at night regardless of which camp you are in. Having said that I think it depends on circumstances. We had a fairly quiet camp this time with lots of buck, honey badgers etc but no visible predators so we walked at night but last year there were lions, leopards, buffalo through the camp and we drove. Always take a good torch.

Ihaha is run by Kwelate. It as not as well run as the SKL group, there is little or no indication of any maintenance or refurbishment. The washing line is falling down as is the lightening mast, and that’s been for years. Toilets are clean but hooks and doors have broken and one cistern is broken. Fixing and maintaining does not seem to be on the cards. They do the bare basics and then attach tip boxes on every tree and flat surface. Dream on. The guys patrol the camp in their car enthusiastically, mainly to make sure everyone is paying. They still managed to double book us one night. The police make occasional appearances with warnings about theft by Namibians from across the river. I guess this may be more common in dry season when the river is low. We have been warned before but, having said that, we see the fishermen in their mokoros gliding down the channels and they appear to show little interest in us and the campsite. It is probably best to lock the cars though.

Our fireplace overlooked the river plain and every evening the Kwelate guy came around to ask why the fire was so small. He wanted us to make it big to scare the lions apparently. As the camp does not sell firewood, (another deficit compared to SLK), and it is not allowed to collect in the park I’m not sure how they expect you to have bundles of firewood to build a nightly bonfire. We became excellent wood scavengers, collecting from vacated sites and picking up a bit of wood in the forest when no one was looking.

The Chobe roads are quite good. Sandy and quite rutted at times. In the rain it can get quite muddy in places but you would be unlucky to get stuck unless you are very unaware.
Campsite 4 Savuti
Crowded In Savuti
Ihaha is run by Kwelate. It as not as well run as the SKL group, there is little or no indication of any maintenance or refurbishment. The washing line is falling down as is the lightening mast, and that’s been for years. Toilets are clean but hooks and doors have broken and one cistern is broken. Fixing and maintaining does not seem to be on the cards. They do the bare basics and then attach tip boxes on every tree and flat surface. Dream on. The guys patrol the camp in their car enthusiastically, mainly to make sure everyone is paying. They still managed to double book us one night. The police make occasional appearances with warnings about theft by Namibians from across the river. I guess this may be more common in dry season when the river is low. We have been warned before but, having said that, we see the fishermen in their mokoros gliding down the channels and they appear to show little interest in us and the campsite. It is probably best to lock the cars though.

Our fireplace overlooked the river plain and every evening the Kwelate guy came around to ask why the fire was so small. He wanted us to make it big to scare the lions apparently. As the camp does not sell firewood, (another deficit compared to SLK), and it is not allowed to collect in the park I’m not sure how they expect you to have bundles of firewood to build a nightly bonfire. We became excellent wood scavengers, collecting from vacated sites and picking up a bit of wood in the forest when no one was looking.

The Chobe roads are quite good. Sandy and quite rutted at times. In the rain it can get quite muddy in places but you would be unlucky to get stuck unless you are very unaware.
View From Campsite 4 Ihaha
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