Hwange National Park
"There is something about safari life that makes you forget all your sorrows and feel as if you had drunk half a bottle of champagne-bubbling with heartfelt gratitude for being alive."
Karen Blixen
Our next, and final destination in Zimbabwe was the great Hwange National Park.
Hwange is the largest park in Zim by far at over 14500 km2 and occupies much of the western border of the country. It was not a priority for me when we planned this trip and I only scheduled 4 nights, mainly to access the Botswana border at Pandamatenga for an easy exit. Well we came to regret this logic.
I don’t know why I was not expecting much from Hwange, although rumours of poaching have been rife. We have travelled close by many times, once driving the Poachers Road down the border of Hwange in Botswana. There are no fences on this border so we were looking straight into the park the whole way. It was dry and rugged at the time but we had sightings of sable, jackal, vultures, warthog and impala and a fellow traveller on the road had a pack of wild dogs.
Despite this, somehow I felt it would be empty and a bit featureless. Was I wrong. What a magnificent, diverse reserve bursting with game. Expect the unexpected.
Friends of Hwange
I think part of the problem with our expectation of Hwange lies in its history. It has been through some tough times. Hwange lies on the edge of the Kalahari desert and much of the vegetation is Kalahari woodland and semi desert.
Zimbabwe in general, and the west of the country in particular, are especially prone to drought cycles and Hwange, similar to the other Kalahari reserves, is dependent largely on piped and pumped water to sustain the animals.
In the early 2000s, when the farm invasions occurred, America and Europe withdrew financial support from Zimbabwe and issued punishing economic sanctions. Hwange was a low government priority and fell into disrepair.
Many animals died in each cycle of drought and poaching was rife. Elephant numbers were blamed for the devastation and the government started moving animals, including selling substantial numbers to China.
2005 was a particularly bad drought year with few of the pumps still working and wildlife loss was enormous. This led to the formation of an NGO called Friends of Hwange (FOH), initially I think just 5 Zimbabweans, who undertook to develop and maintain the water resources of the park and support conservation.
They now manage almost all the boreholes in the north of the park where most of the game aggregation occurs. They added solar to many of the pumps and they provide diesel in the dry season.
They have also improved infrastructure in the camps and picnic sites and generally spruced the place up. All the members of this group are volunteers and their efforts are visible. It is quite humbling to see what can be achieved by a dedicated and well resourced group.
As a result Hwange is once again a wildlife paradise with a huge diverse animal population, especially elephants. By the time we left Hwange we were hooked on its unique beauty and overwhelmed by the photographic opportunities it delivered.
Gwango Heritage Lodge
We had one night in relative luxury in a lodge called Gwango Heritage right by the gate. We pulled in hot and sweaty but an afternoon by the sparkling pool and a dinner out returned us to a version of human and Wi-Fi reconnected us to the world.
The Beast had developed a problem with the subsidiary battery and so we transferred the freezer to Ian’s care in Bessie and prepared ourselves for no air con or compressor for the time being. This was going to be fun.
Eating out in Zim was generally a disappointing event. The food was scanty, expensive and not very nice. I had 5 chicken nuggets for around $12, everyone else had some really tough T bone.
Still it was cooked by someone else and we were in a good mood after beers at the pool.
After a good nights sleep and a rather dubious breakfast we were ready to see what Hwange would show us.
Silwane
Nyamandhlovu
Our first 2 nights in Hwange were booked at Silwane a small camp, actually just outside the park, but to get there you drive through the main park headquarters and then south through the park to a gate reserved for the little lodge. The main Hwange camp is neat and rather reminiscent of San parks, a small garage and restaurant and rondavels.
They advertise a lot of information about conservation, especially work with human animal conflict. Chilli fences and bee hives are in vogue.
Hwange is organised around a series of pumped waterholes where the game tends to cluster.
Most of the waterholes have a viewing area and many of them have platforms which gives a great overview of the area around, improving your animal spotting. The landscape is fairly open which helps with finding game.
There was more grass and trees than outside the park so the landscape looked less desperate but still dry. We saw elephants and impala and kudu and zebra and giraffe. Lots of birds and more birds of prey. Clearly there was plenty of game. We headed for a waterhole called Nyamandhlovu with a platform and there were lions in the bush. Eles came in and a few cautious kudu. Vultures circled.
Heading south the roads were sandy and slow. If you are off the main drag you have to allow a lot more time.
The eles bring down trees over the roads and we were hopping in and out of the car to shift logs every few meters in places. Somehow this felt more hazardous than in Mana or the Kariba parks.
One memorable morning we had to winch a whole tree out of the way. You guessed it, the winch broke!
To access Camp Silwane we had to exit a boom gate and cross the railway line. There are no fences.
A railway runs almost the length of Hwange in the East. We found the Rovos rail train in a siding. All the guests were out game driving. Some of the Rovos trips pretty much run through Hwange. Later we heard from other sources the line is in bad shape and the train has to go very slowly. I wonder how many animals they hit.
Meyers Parrot
White Bellied Sunbird
Grey-backed Camaroptera
Silwane Camp
Our camp site was small and unfenced with a waterhole out front and bucket showers and a flush toilet. Elephants moseyed past and drank at the water. There is a lodge with tented camp, bar and restaurant about 1 km away.
After settling in we set off back to the park to the nearest waterhole for sunset. Kennedy 1 was on an open plain and we found elephant and giraffe.
The road goes all around this little water hole so you can position for shots against or with the sun.
Over the next hour more and more eles came down to drink, in small and larger groups, some with tiny babies. Trumpeting and rumbling around us. It was fabulous.
Finally, and reluctantly, we made a run for home, careful not to be late for the crossing out of the park. It became quite dark as we drove and we met a few eles in the forest on the opposite side of the railway which slowed us down, but we rolled in to camp to find the waterhole at the campsite also full of eles kicking up a storm.
Seeing so many elephants at one waterhole was definitely a surreal experience. It does ask the question just how over stocked with elephants Hwange is. They do migrate into the neighbouring parks and countries but the drought cycle takes its toll on elephants. The fact that we saw most of our lions on elephant carcasses tells you something.
Poaching has been a problem in the past. In 2013 over 100 elephants died when a waterhole was poisoned with cyanide. The biggest illegal killing of animals in Southern Africa in 25 years. Not something a park really wants to be known for, but arrests were made.
Drought and poverty lead to a lot of game meat poaching around the park. Both Zimbabwe and Namibian governments have proposed a plan to cull elephants for food. Who knows what the future will bring but for now the elephants are numerous and welcome roadblocks to our safari life.
We slept soundly. Eles moved through the camp and stood right next to Carmen and Ian’s tent. One ele raided the water of the adjacent campsite. We heard it but it did not disturb us.
Next day we woke early for the park. We had heard of lions at Nkwasha about 25 km away and we planned to move there quite fast. Before we got to Kennedy 1, however, we found a posse of cars on a cheetah walking in the veld. We joined the queue and got some good shots when he climbed a tree next to the road and stared at us through the branches. Yes, cheetah can climb trees.
The Kennedy waterholes were quiet but when we arrived at Nkwasha there was a pride of lions asleep under a tree. Clearly we had missed the early morning activity. We saw 2 females and a male with about 6 cubs but others told us there were at least 6 other females missing, perhaps out hunting.
The trip back to camp was hot and dusty and we felt the lack of air con.
Back at camp we mobbed the little bar for cold drinks and the boys set about trying to fix the Qdata before we died of heat stroke on the next drive. They had no success but eventually bypassed the auxiliary system and put everything on the main battery. We would have to watch the main battery like a hawk but at least the electrics were working again. Hurrah!
Our afternoon drive took us back around the closer waterholes. On the way home we had a glimpse of wild dog and also our first roan antelope.
In the forest en route to camp a herd of buffalo stampeded right in front of us. When we pulled in to our site they were all at the campsite waterhole, eyes gleaming gold in the torch light. The camp attendant told us the lions had been in camp but the night was quiet and we slept well.
2 nights was nowhere near enough time to explore this side of the park but we were due in the far west and so we locked and loaded early next day for a full days run. We had to swing by main camp for fuel and we had been warned the roads got rocky further west.
We had seen such a diversity and volume of animals in less than 2 days, we were definitely hooked on Hwange.
Picnic Sites and Waterholes
We were headed for Robins Camp, a fairly large camp site at a lodge in the far north east. Most of the game in Hwange is found in the north of the park where the pumped waterholes are more numerous. The south of the park is much drier and the animals scarce. A more remote place to travel but maybe in the wetter season.
Although we were booked in lodges with campsites there is another form of camping in Hwange which is as unique as it is attractive.
At many waterholes there is also a picnic site, fenced with toilet, shower, tables and a camp attendant who will provide wood if needed. This is unusual in terms of the other parks but again I think it is because this is a park where being out of your vehicle is less safe, particularly with the predator population close to water, so they give you safer options.
Also FOH have been active in refurbishing and running the picnic sites so they are in good shape.
Each picnic site can also be hired as a campsite, booked through the park. Only one group per picnic site and max 10 people per group at a cost of $200 a night.
If you are 10 that’s pretty cheap, if you are 2 it’s a bit pricy but what cost almost total exclusivity in the heart of the park. You have to leave space for the day visitors and allow them access to the facilities, but to be fair you will probably not often be overrun and at night the site, and the waterhole, is all yours.
So the magic dawn and dusk hours you have it to yourself. I think that is pretty cool and worth the outlay. I am sure amazing sightings will be had.
We saw both extremes of the picnic campsites. At Nkwasha with the lions there were 4 vehicles with trailers and caravans, a veritable village people. They even had a generator (not actually allowed). They had a TV set up and were watching some religious broadcast I think. With everything else to see that seemed weird. They did not welcome the day visitors and a lady came to say they were worried we would use all the toilet paper. Maybe we looked like we all had raging diarrhoea. We were looking a bit disreputable at the time. I left her speechless when I took her a few rolls from Vicky’s stash. You see they were not short, just mean!
They had been there a couple of days and watched the pride of lions hunt and play so they really were in pole position. You can stay a maximum of 3 consecutive nights I think. I am not sure how rigidly they stick to these rules.
At other picnic sites en route we found only 2 people enjoying the solitude of the overnight camping. Some of the sites had a smaller capacity and allowed less campers there. The Shumbas and Masama and Deetma Dams all looked like great places to overnight. The Dam sites were overlooking the water and you had access to the hide. They are not floodlit at night so full moon would be preferable. Some of the platforms also had toilets and a shower and apparently a maximum of 3 people can overnight there.
We discovered all this as we juddered down the stony rocky road to Robins Camp. The lions were again at Nyamandhlovu, one was on a small elephant kill while the vultures crept closer. We saw elephants bathing at some of the waterholes and many antelopes including sable and roan. Lots of bird life.
Masama Dam
Purple Roller
Kori Bustard
Bradfield's Hornbill
Elephants from the Deetma Dam Hide
The small platform at Big Toms
We met a guy on the road who told us to go to Big Tom’s waterhole near Robins camp as there was another dead elephant. He died of old age and the rangers detusked him. We wound our way through dry mopane without high hopes.
We found the carcass without too much trouble at a waterhole with a small platform and settled in but we were all tired and hot. There was a lion nearby and vultures were gathering.
Ian clearly was losing patience and had a brief rant at Sonia regarding her SD card. That saw off all the other visitors in disgust. Ian is not exactly quiet at the best of times and he has a choice range of expletives. Anyway we now had the place to ourselves.
As we watched a couple of cubs came down to drink and a third popped out. They scared a croc into the water. Some more females walked in along the waters edge and then they all went to eat. The cubs climbed on the elephant and the adults were tearing at something in the abdomen so clearly the rangers had opened the carcass. We watched mesmerised in the golden light of the setting sun and in the end we had to run for camp at speed to avoid being late.
I don’t know what the moral of this story is, but we kept quiet around the camp about our luck in case some of the victims came back to slash our tyres.
Sometimes I think Ian is our secret weapon.
Robins Camp
We arrived at Robins Camp after dark, they showed us around a neat lodge with bar, restaurant and pool and directed us to the campsite. The restaurant tempted us until we saw the menu of fish fingers. We can do better even when tired from a long day.
The camp was spacious with clean plentiful ablutions under a small forest of, mostly bare, trees and we had a large stand. We set up and made a steak stew with potatoes before shower and bed. Bone tired but happy.
The Hot Springs
Robins camp is named after Herbert George Robins who owned the land where Robins Camp stands now. In the early 1900s he established a private reserve and banned hunting and at his death in 1939 he bequeathed the land to the government on the condition that it would always be maintained as a game sanctuary.
He was an eccentric man for his time and it is likely this was the first game sanctuary in Southern Africa. It became contiguous with Wankie game reserve and was assimilated into Hwange. He asked for his body to be left out to be consumed by animals but the government would not comply with this and he is buried close to Robins Camp. I think you know you would have liked him.
Next day we broke camp early and drove towards Big Tom. The pride were still there with full bellies. The vultures were waiting patiently. We moved on to look at nearby salt pans, but apart from some puku and impala and warthog, the game was scarce. We did a loop to see the hot springs where we found birds and impala enjoying the hot water and then we set out for the croc hide.
En route we found 2 male lions under a bush and the others we met there told us there had been 3 more. A herd of buffalo stampeded past. We arrived at the croc hide overlooking a stream. There were quite a few small crocs and hippo in the pool. That reminded us we needed a swim and we headed back. A cool sparkling pool in camp is always a bonus.
The Croc Hide
We met Debbie from England who was on the way to the Gonerezhou game count. All the Zim parks have annual game counts and recruit volunteers to come help.
For several years we used to randomly meet an Australian couple who came to do the Hwange game count every year and the Mana game count had been on while we were there.
Anyone who wants to participate has to register with WES and pay a fee. You then get a 50% discount on accommodation at the park over 3 days
You are assigned a location. You count game at your site for a period of 24 hours. All the statistics are then taken and they use it to extrapolate the numbers of animals in each park.
We did look into it just before Covid and were thinking of applying but the cost of registration pretty much cancels any cost savings. Still I think people find it fun and feel they are contributing.
Trust the Zimbabweans to work out a system where people pay them to do the work.
That afternoon we headed for Little Tom, an adjacent hide to Big Tom. We found another pride of lion under the trees and elephants came marching down to drink. In case you are not counting that is at least 3 prides of lion we had seen in an area around 15 km2.
At Big Tom our original pride was still in residence and the cubs continued to entertain. In this side of the park the predator density is impressive, especially as there seems to be little for the prey animals to eat except rocks but that’s the dry season for you. I am sure it looks like paradise after some good rains.
Black and White
One of the difficulties Hwange is you are often out in the mid day sun and managing those high contrast photos can be tricky.
It does however lend itself to some black and white images which capture the grain and detail thrown up by the shadows and bright light.
Goodbye, Good Luck and Godspeed
Next day we woke early to pack up. Today we head for Kasane and repairs. One car with Mike, Sonia and Vicky will go North to Victoria Falls for a couple of days and then meet us.
I won’t lie it was hard to tear ourselves away. We revisited our local lion prides on the way out and found yet another lion on a buffalo kill before the gate. You could get spoiled in this place.
We waved goodbye and headed for the Pandamatenga border into Botswana.
We always intended to use this border at the end of our Zimbabwean trip. We have passed it often enough on the Botswana side and it is in a very sleepy little corner.
It did not disappoint. We were the only cars there. We crossed with ridiculous ease. The guard on the Zimbabwe side was looking for a food handout and we gave him some left overs. The Botswanan side let us through without paying car tax, nor did they charge visa fees for Carmen and Ian. They said it was discretional. Who knew.
So that was the end of Zim. A roller coaster ride with amazing places and amazing wildlife encounters. We will be back for sure.
We turned our noses North. Next stop Kasane.
"Traveling - it leaves you
speechless, then turns you
into a
storyteller."
Ibn Battuta